Bodice, part of 3-pieces made of same fabric. (W.84.40.1, .2, .3) Purple silk-like fabric with matching embellished trims and fringe.
Inside: Main portion of bodice (lining & outer fabric) sewn by machine. 5 front stays: 2 bust dart stays (7-8 inches) on each side; one center front. Pieces of machine-knit fabric sewn at underarms (for sweat absorption?) 4 large hooks sewn at waist level match 4 eyes sewn on waistband to hook bodice and skirt. 6 smaller hooks sewn to bottom interior edge, 3 each side.
Outside back: Stiffening on back opening with 14 overcast holes on both sides for lacing. At top opening, fabric tape that's encased around entire edge of neckline can be pulled to gather low front neckline to fit across the chest. 3/5-inch long lightly gathered trim (with lace edging hand-stitched to upper edge) stitched around neckline. 1-inch wide purple ribbon embellished with white stem and leaves is hand-stitched from V/peak at center front up and over shoulders and down back of bodice ending with two 7.5-inch tails below center back opening. Purple and white fringe trim sewn around edges.
Sleeves: Bell-shaped sleeves trimmed with 2 encircling 2-inch wide bands of purple with purple and white diamond chain design. Top edges are trimmed with short .5-inch purple and white fringe. Lower edges trimmed with 2-inch dark purple fringe. Long sleeves inside out bell-shaped sleeve are constructed of fine fabric with lavish 10-inch trim at bottom.
Provenance
Said to have been worn to James Buchanan's inauguration.
One of two bodices that matches skirt (W.84.40.3) Purple silk contoured garment. Front opening with 11 thread-covered globe buttons on left front. Corresponding .75-inch slit buttonholes on right front. A twelfth button hole is bend over (alteration?). 4 bands of purple ribbon (with white stems and leaves) sewn across the front with 1.5 inches between each on front and back. 4 lower sides are 5-inch openings. Ribbon and fringe trim is mitered at these corners. Center back ends in a point box pleat. Lower fringe around the bottom is 2 inches of dark purple.
Year Range From
1853
Year Range To
1856
Storage Location
LancasterHistory, Lancaster, PA
Storage Room
DAC
Storage Wall
Island 2
Storage Cabinet
Unit 12
Storage Shelf
Shelf 3
Object Name
Bodice
Length (cm)
50.8
Length (ft)
1.6666666667
Length (in)
20
Width (cm)
58.42
Width (ft)
1.9166666667
Width (in)
23
Dimension Details
20 inches wide underarm to underarm
Condition
Poor
Condition Notes
Without sleeves (raw edge); no collar on neckline finish; two pieces cutout of lower front portion of garment; 2 front darts have been let out; spots; underarm stains; back contour seams let out; raw edges on trim revealed. Dark contrasting thread standing out on outside fabric indicates alteration.
Bodice is one of three pieces (1 skirt & 2 bodices) constructed of same fabric. Purple silk contoured garment. Front opening with 11 thread-covered globe buttons on left front. Corresponding .75-inch slit buttonholes on right front. A twelfth buttonhole is bent over. 4 bands of purple ribbon (with white stems and leaves) sewn across the front with 1.5 inches between each on front and back. 4 lower sides are 5-inch openings. Ribbon and fringe trim is mitered at these corners. Cent back ends in a point box pleat. Lower fringe around the bottom is 2-inch dark purple.
Provenance
Said to have been worn to James Buchanan's inauguration.
11/17/2022: Poor; Without sleeves (raw edge); no collar or neckline finish; two pieces cut out of lower front portion of garment, 2 front darts have been let out; spots, underarm stains; back contour seams let out, raw edges on trim revealed. Dark contrasting running stitch thread standing out on outside fabric indicates alteration.
