Girl's Victorian Dress, Pink Dress with Velvet Trim, long sleeved with gathered skirt. Fabric is rose colored silk with alternating vertical stripes of plain satin & 4 narrow white stripes. Both hand and machine construction used to make this dress. Double construction- silk on outside tan cotton fabric on inside. On bodic: 2 wide rows of gathering at neck. 1.5-in high stand up collar attached to neck. Over shoulders and on front are flaps decorated with 2 bands of burgundy velvet. These velevet bands also on stand up collar and near bottom edges of both sleves. Bands of lace attached to both cuffs and collar. Additional stiffener sewn inside 5-in. hem. Back closure is 13 hooks and eyes.
Made of heavy silk brocade. Blue background with beige and red colors in paisley design. Multi colored cording around collar, cuffs, pockets, and front. Lined in navy blue silk and batting quitled in diaper pattern -- machine stitched. Cording also used for front closre between collar and pockets; three pairs of corded loops anchored by an ornate triangular design of sewn cording with a mesh covered, barrel-shaped wooden button to hold the cord loop from the opposite side. Tassel belt. Inside back has band that can be adjusted/gathered. Two fabric covered buttons with cording at outside side seams for loops to hold the corded belt.
Textile is very fragile and is ripping in some areas. Ed 12/20/2016, VAP. Some stains, wear on lower edge right sleeve. Heavy wear at neck. Center back seam apart. Collar separating from neckline. Left side seam open.
Object ID
W.1940.012.001
Notes
Presented to James Buchanan by Chinese or Japanese Ambassador while Buchanan was Ambassador in England.
Harriet Lane Johnston beaded jacket to match gown (W.40.17.1)
Description
Jacket Black crape silk, beaded in black glass beads, designed by Worth of Paris. Fully-lined in black silk taffeta and interlined with muslin. Has small turned down collar with full length set-in sleeves. Collar, cuffs, and hem trimmed with 3'' fringe and 3'' strand of black beads every inch. Varying size of black beads used to create a contoured design of flowers and swirls on front and sleeves.
Sheer lace overdress. Belonged to Harriet Lane Johnston. White lace with white embroidered flowers. Bodice has sort cap sleeps. Aroundneckline is a slightly gathered 5in wide band of ecru or light tan lace. A .5in wide white lace band stands up from neck. Pink ribbon flowers and green ebroidered leaves are stitched around neckline. Back closure with hooks and eyes at neckline and waist. Open placket from waist is 15.5in long.
Provenance
Harriet Lane- Donor [Mrs. Patty Lane Eldridge Sebrell]
Black wool paisely print shawl. Parts of design are embroidered by hand. Black, blue, red, green, yellow, brown, grey, cream, and tan colors in design. Edges are fringed. Print on edges only. Two ends are sewn on. Hand-embroidered and sewn.
Rectangular shaped shawl with paisley design printed on the fabric. Design is red, green, sapphire, and blue with ecru background, and gold. Fringe is silk floss and is 7' long.
Almost square, dark ecru, silk shawl. Two different motifs. Floral design filling opposing corners, spread at right angles from point of origin. Motifs meet at corners and center. Bordered with a fuschia vine motif. Fringe is 13' long, braid is 5'. Embro
1. Bodice Moss green. Jewel neckline. Slightly pointed front waistline, brass hooks and eyes at center front. Pagoda sleeve. Feather boning at center front eye casing. Two underbust darts with boning. Underarm seam also boned. Trimmed with silk brocade w
1. Bodice Burnt red day dress. Lined with linen twill. Feather boning attached outside of seams. Tacked down with feather stitch. Raw edges on inside are whip stitched with a purple silk twist. Front is tucked stomacher. Short peplin around bottom, split
39.1 (blouse) Contoured top of satiny finely-striped orange-warm white fabric. Lace trim at neck, 6 inches wide. Front closure with 12 hooks and eyes. Entire bodice double construction with white cotton lining inside. A trapazoidal panel is attached to left center front. This panel has a center of orange and brown embroidered round fruits with stems and leaves on filmy fabric. Across center is a dark diamond-shaped bead attached to small dark irredescent seed beads. Similar beading on bands at shoulder.
39.2 (skirt) Satiny finely-striped orange-wamr white fabric. Back is slightly gored with 4 panels. Placket opening has a later addition to make it 8 inches wides. Closed with one hook and eye. Lining is plain white cotton. In back, one inner edge is hand pinked creating a seam finish. A commercially-made 6-inch long lace and pleat trim is hand-stitched inside.
Front of skirt: Waistband of folded white cotton 1/2-inch wide tape. A v-shaped waist front panel was covered with same orange and brown embroidered fruits with stme and leaves on a filmy fabric. 2 gore-like inserts of the plain fabric are decorated with layered cascaing strips of gathered 5-inch lace panels. Hem circumference is 140 inches (80 in back;60.5 in front).
Unusual sleeve construction with 1/2-inch band to which fabric is gathered for a puffy lower sleeve. Fabric is gathered to a 1 3/4-inch wide wristband covered with a lace band. A self-fabric bow is sewn to the upper side of the wrist opening.